Water-in-silicone emulsion cosmetic compositions

ABSTRACT

Cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin comprise a cyclodextrin compound and a salicylic acid or salicylic acid derivative, wherein the composition is in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion having a continuous silicone oil-containing phase and a discontinuous aqueous phase.The compositions herein provide improved anti-acne/anti-inflammatory activity together with reduced skin irritation.

This application is a 371 of PCT/US98/12509 filed Jun. 12, 1998.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions and moreparticularly, to pigmented foundation make-up compositions andconcealers.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

A foundation composition can be applied to the face and other parts ofthe body to even skin tone and texture and to hide pores, imperfections,fine lines and the like. A foundation composition is also applied tomoisturize the skin, to balance the oil level of the skin and to provideprotection against the adverse effects of sunlight, wind and the harshenvironment. Make-up compositions are generally available in the form ofliquid or cream suspensions, emulsions, gels, pressed powders oranhydrous oil and wax compositions. Such cosmetic make-up compositionsare described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,444,291, 4,486,405, 4,804,532,3,978,207, 4,659,562, 5,143,722 and Nakamura et al., Preprints of theXIVth I.F.S.C.C. Congress, Barcelona, 1986, Vol. I, 51-63 (1986).

Foundations in the form of water-in-oil emulsions are well known andprovide good coverage and good skin feel, wear and appearance. At thesame time, it would be desirable to provide a foundation compositionhaving topical anti-acne activity. It would also be desirable to providea foundation composition which is mild to the skin and which causelittle or no skin irritation. There are many compounds which are knownto exhibit anti-acne properties when applied topically to the skin. Acommonly used keratolytic agent having anti-acne activity is salicylicacid. As salicylic acid is virtually insoluble in water, it is difficultto incorporate into the aqueous phase of a water-in-oil emulsion.Although salicylic acid can be delivered from the pigment-containing oilphase of a water-in-oil emulsion foundation composition, this can,however, lead to discolouration of the composition due to interactionbetween the salicylic acid and pigments, especially of the iron oxidetype. It would therefore be desirable to deliver the salicylic acid insoluble form from the aqueous phase of a water-in-oil emulsion.

Attempts have been made to improve the solubility of salicylic acid inaqueous phase. One way of doing this involves the use of alcoholsolvents such as ethanol. However, such compositions can be harsh andcan lead to skin irritation. Another way of helping to solubilisesalicylic acid in aqueous systems involves the use of solubilising aidssuch as PVP. For example, WO 95/04517 discloses a make-up composition inthe form of an emulsion comprising an acidic anti-acne active dissolvedin the aqueous phase and a pigment or mixture of pigments dispersed inthe oil phase. PVP is disclosed as a complexing agent for aiding thesolubilisation of salicylic acid. Yet another way of helping tosolubilise salicylic acid is by using cyclodextrin compounds.Cyclodextrin compounds are known to form inclusion complexes withsalicylic acid which can aid solubilisation in aqueous systems. Ointmenttype compositions comprising cyclodextrin compounds and salicylic acidare known from the following documents: “Influence of cyclodextrins andother additives of the release of salicylic acid from various ointmentbases”, Yakuzaigaku, 50(4), 341-346 (1990) and “Effect of additives onrelease of drugs from ointment bases”, Yakuzaigaku, 42(1), 10-16 (1982).

Despite being able to solubilise salicylic acid in the aqueous phases ofcosmetic compositions using methods such as described above, there isstill a need for cosmetic compositions having improvedanti-acne/anti-inflammatory activity together with skin mildness/reducedskin irritation.

It has now been surprisingly found that by incorporating salicylic acidor a salicylic acid derivative and a cyclodextrin compound into acosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion havinga discontinuous aqueous phase and a silicone-containing continuous phasethere is provided a composition having improved anti-acne/anti-bacterialactivity together with reduced skin irritation.

It is accordingly a primary object of this invention to provide acosmetic composition having improved anti-acne activity.

It is also an object of the invention to provide a cosmetic compositionhaving reduced skin irritation.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

In accordance with one aspect of the present invention, there isprovided a cosmetic composition comprising salicylic acid or salicylicacid derivative and a cyclodextrin compound wherein the composition isin the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion having a discontinuousaqueous phase and a continuous silicone—containing phase.

The cosmetic compositions of the present invention provide improvedanti-acne/anti-inflammatory activity, mildness and reduced skinirritation.

All levels and ratios are by weight of total composition, unlessotherwise indicated. Chain lengths and degrees of alkoxylation are alsospecified on a weight average basis.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises acyclodextrin compound and salicylic acid or salicylic acid derivative.

Cyclodextrin Compound

The first essential ingredient of the cosmetic compositions herein is acyclodextrin compounds. As used herein, the term “cyclodextrin” (CD)includes unsubstituted cyclodextrins containing from six to twelveglucose units, especially, alpha-, beta-, gamma-, cyclodextrins, and/orderivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof, that are capable of forminginclusion complexes with salicylic acid or salicylic acid derivatives.

There are many derivatives of cyclodextrins that are known.Representative derivatives are those disclosed in U.S. Pat. No.3,426,011, Parmerter et al., issued Feb. 4, 1969; U.S. Pat. Nos.3,453,257, 3,453,258, 3,453,259, 3,453,260, all in the names ofParmerter et al., and all issued Jul. 1, 1969; U.S. Pat. No. 3,459,731,Gramera et al., issued Aug. 5, 1969; U.S. Pat. No. 2,553,191, Parmerteret al., issued Jan. 5. 1971; U.S. Pat. No. 3,565,887, Parmerter et al.,issued Feb. 23, 1971; U.S. Pat. No. 4,535,152, Szejtli et al., issuedAug. 13, 1985; U.S. Pat. No. 4,616,008, Hirai et al., issued Oct. 7,1986; U.S. Pat. No. 4,638,058, Brandt et al., issued Jan. 20, 1987; U.S.Pat. No. 4,746,734, Tsuchiyama et al., issued May 24, 1988; and U.S.Pat. No. 4,678,598, Ogino et al., issued Jul. 7, 1987, all of saidpatents being incoroporated herein by reference. Examples ofcyclodextrin derivatives suitable for use herein aremethyl-beta-cyclodextrin, hydroxyethyl-beta-cyclodextrin, andhydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin of different degrees of substitution(DS).

The individual cyclodextrins can also be linked together, for example,using multifunctional agents to form oligomers, polymers, etc. Anexample of such a material is beta-cyclodextrin/epichlorohydrincopolymers.

It is also suitable to use mixtures of cyclodextrins to provide amixture of complexes. Mixtures of cyclodextrins can conveniently beobtained by using intermediate products from known processes for thepreparation of cyclodextrins including those processes described in U.S.Pat. No. 3,425,910, Armbruster et al., issued Feb. 4, 1969; U.S. Pat.No. 3,812,011, Okada et al., issued May 21, 1974; U.S. Pat. No.4,317,881, Yagi et al., issued Mar. 2, 1982; U.S. Pat. No. 4,418,144,Okada et al., issued Nov. 29, 1983; and U.S. Pat. No. 4,738,923,Ammeraal, issued Apr. 19, 1988, all of said patents being incorporatedherein by reference.

Preferred cyclodextrin compounds for use in the compositions herein arehydroxy(C1-C4)alkyl-cyclodextrins, especiallyhydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin.

The cyclodextrin compound is present in the cosmetic compositions of thepresent invention at a level of from about 0.1% to about 20%, preferablyfrom about 0.8% to about 15%, especially from about 4% to about 12%, byweight of the composition.

A second essential component of the compositions herein is salicylicacid or salicylic acid derivative. The term salicylic acid derivative asused herein means any 2,3 or 4-OR substituted benzoic acid compoundhaving the formula:

wherein R is selected from C₁-C₆ alkyl or C₁-C₆ acyl, preferably whereinR is selected from C₂-C₃ alkyl or C₂-C₃ acyl. Especially preferredherein is salicylic acid.

The salicylic acid or salicylic acid derivative is present in an amountwhich is safe and effective for providing anti-acne/anti-inflammatoryactivity, and preferably at a level of from about 0.1% to about 10%,more preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, and especially from about0.5% to about 2%, by weight of composition.

As used herein, “safe and effective amount” means a sufficient amount ofa compound, composition or other material described by this phrase tosignificantly induce a positive modification in the condition beingtreated, but low enough to avoid undue side effects (e.g., significantskin irritation or sensitization), within the scope of sound judgementof the skilled person. The safe and effective amount of the compound,composition or other material may vary with the particular skin beingtreated, the age and physical condition of the biological subject beingtreated, the severity of the condition, the duration of treatment, thenature of concurrent therapy, the specific compound, composition, orother material employed, the particular cosmetically acceptable topicalcarrier utilized, and the factors within the knowledge and expertise ofthe skilled person.

Water-in-silicone Emulsion

The cosmetic compositions of the present invention are in the form of awater-in-silicone emulsion having a silicone oil-containing continuousphase and an aqueous discontinuous phase.

The emulsion compositions herein preferably comprises from about 20% toabout 95%, more preferably from about 30% to about 70% by weight ofsilicone oil-containing phase, and from about 5% to about 80%, morepreferably from about 30% to about 70% by weight of aqueous phase. Theaqueous phase preferably comprises from about 40% to about 90%, morepreferably from about 60% to about 80% by weight of aqueous phase ofwater. The total level of water in the compositions herein is in therange of from about 10% to about 60%, more preferably from about 30% toabout 50% by weight of composition.

Silicone Oil-containing Phase

The composition comprises a continuous silicone oil-containing phase.

In preferred embodiments the silicone oil-containing phase comprises amixture of volatile silicones and non-volatile silicones. The siliconesare useful herein for providing skin conditioning properties. Thesilicone fluid is present in an amount of from about 1% to about 50% byweight. Suitable volatile silicones include cyclic and linear volatilepolyorganosiloxanes. The term “nonvolatile” as used herein shall meanthe material has a vapour pressure of no more than 0.1 mm Hg at oneatmosphere and 25° C. The term “volatile” as used herein shall meanmaterials which are not nonvolatile or which have a vapour pressure atthe same conditions of more than 0.1 mm Hg.

A description of various volatile silicones is found in Todd, et al.“Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics”, 91 Cosmetics and Toiletries27-32 (1976).

Preferred cyclic silicones include cyclic dimethyl siloxane chainscontaining an average of from about 3 to about 9 silicon atoms,preferably from about 4 to about 5 silicon atoms. Preferred linearsilicones include the polydimethylsiloxanes containing an average offrom about 3 to about 9 silicon atoms. The linear volatile siliconesgenerally have viscosities of less than about 5 centistokes at 25° C.,while the cyclic materials have viscosities of less than about 10centistokes. Examples of silicone oils useful in the present inventioninclude: Dow Corning 344, Dow Corning 245, Dow Corning 345, and DowCorning 200 (manufactured by the Dow Corning Corporation): Silicone 7207and Silicone 7158 (manufactured by the Union Carbide Corporation).SF:202 (manufactured by General Electric) and SWS-03314 (manufactured byStauffer Chemical).

The nonvolatile silicones will have vapour pressures as previouslydefined, and preferably will have an average viscosity of from about 10to about 100,000 cps at 25° C., more preferably from about 100 to about10,000 cps, even more preferably from about 500 to about 6000 cps. Lowerviscosity non-volatile silicone conditioning agents, however, can alsobe used. Viscosity can be measured-by means of a glass capillaryviscometer as set forth in Dow Coming Corporate Test Method CTM0004,Jul. 20, 1970.

Suitable non-volatile silicone fluids for use herein include polyalkylsiloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, polysiloxaneswith amino functional substitutions, polyether siloxane copolymers, andmixtures thereof. The siloxanes useful in the present invention may besubstituted and/or endcapped with any number of moieties, so long as thematerial remains suitable for use in a topical cosmetic product,including, for example, methyl, hydroxyl, ethylene oxide, propyleneoxide, amino and carboxyl. However, other silicone fluids having skinconditioning properties may be used. The non-volatile polyalkyl siloxanefluids that may be used include, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes.These siloxanes are available, for example, from the General ElectricCompany as a Viscasil (RTM) series and from Dow Corning as the DowCorning 200 series. Preferably, the viscosity ranges from about 10mm².s⁻¹ to about 100,000 mm².s ⁻¹ at 25° C. The polyalkylaryl siloxanefluids that may be used, also include, for example,polymethylphenylsiloxanes. These siloxanes are available, for example,from the General Electric Company as SF 1075 methyl phenyl fluid or fromDow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid. The polyether siloxanecopolymer that may be used includes, for example, a polypropylene oxidemodified dimethylpolysiloxane (e.g., Dow Corning DC-1248) althoughethylene oxide or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide mayalso be used.

References disclosing suitable silicone fluids include U.S. Pat. No.2,826,551, Green; U.S. Pat. No. 3,964,500, Drakoff, issued Jun. 22nd,1976; U.S. Pat. No. 4,364,837, Pader; and GB-A-849,433, Woolston. Inaddition, Silicone Compounds distributed by Petrarch Systems Inc., 1984provides an extensive (though not exclusive) listing of suitablesilicone fluids.

Preferred non-volatile silicones for use herein includepolydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymers containing at least onepolydiorganosiloxane segment and at least one polyoxyalkylene segment.The polydiorganosiloxane segment has the general formula:

R_(b)SiO_((4-b)/2)

siloxane units wherein b has a value of from about 0 to about 3,inclusive, there being an average value of approximately two R radicalsper silicon for all siloxane units in the copolymer, and R denotes aradical selected from methyl, ethyl, vinyl, phenyl and a divalentradical bonding said polyoxyalkylene segment to the polydiorganosiloxanesegment. The polyoxyalkylene segment has an average molecular weight ofat least about 500, preferably at least about 1000, and comprising fromabout 0 to about 50 mol percent polyoxypropylene units and from about 50to about 100 mol percent polyoxyethylene units, at least one terminalportion of said polyoxyalkylene segment being grafted to, or covalentlybonded directly or indirectly to a polydiorganosiloxane segment, anyterminal portion of said polyoxyalkylene segment not bonded to saidpolydiorganosiloxane segment being satisfied by a terminating radical;the weight ratio of polydiorganosiloxane segments to polyoxyalkylenesegments in said copolymer preferably having a value of from about 2 toabout 8. Such polymers are described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,268,499.

Preferred for use herein are polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylenecopolymers having the general formula:

wherein R¹ is selected from C1 to C5 alkyl groups, preferably methyl, zis in the range of from 1 to 4, x and y are selected such that theweight ratio of polydiorganosiloxane segments to polyoxalkylene segmentsis from about 2 to about 8, the mol ratio of a:(a+b) is from about 0.5to about 1, and R is a chain terminating group, especially selected fromhydrogen; hydroxyl; alkyl, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, benzyl;aryl, such as phenyl; alkoxy such as methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy, butoxy;benzyloxy; aryloxy, such as phenoxy; alkenyloxy, such as vinyloxy andallyloxy; acyloxy, such as acetoxy, acryloxy and propionoxy and amino,such as dimethylamino.

More preferred for use herein are polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylenecopolymers having the formula:

wherein x, y and R are as defined above.

The number of and average molecular weights of the segments in thecopolymer are such that the weight ratio of polydiorganosiloxanesegments to polyoxyalkylene segments in the copolymer is preferably fromabout 2.5 to about 4.0.

Suitable copolymers are available commercially under the tradenamesBelsil (RTM) from Wacker-Chemie GmbH, Geschaftsbereich S, PostfachD-8000 Munich 22 and Abil (RTM) from Th. Goldschmidt Ltd,. Tego House,Victoria Road, Ruislip, Middlesex, HA4 OYL. Particularly preferred foruse herein are Belsil (RTM) 6031, Abil (RTM) B88183, DC3225C, DC5200,Abil We09, Abil EM90, BY22-008 (Dow Corning) and SF1328 (GE Silicones).A preferred silicone herein is known by its CTFA designation asdimethicone copolyol.

The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from about20% to about 95% by weight of composition of silicone oil-containingphase. The silicone-oil containing phase preferably comprises from about0.01% to about 25%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 10% byweight of the silicone oil-containing phase of non-volatile silicones.The silicone oil-containing phase preferably comprises from about 75% toabout 99.99%, more preferably from about 90% to about 99.95% by weightof the silicone oil-containing phase of volatile silicones.

The silicone oil-containing phase in the water-in-silicone emulsions ofthe present invention can also comprise one or more non-silicone organicoil, such as natural or synthetic oil selected from mineral, vegetable,and animal oils, fats and waxes, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols,fatty acids and mixtures thereof, which ingredients are useful forachieving emollient cosmetic properties. It will be understood that thesilicone oil-containing phase may contain, for example, up to about 25%,preferably up to only about 10% of oil phase soluble emulsifieringredients. Such ingredients are not to be considered as oil phasecomponents from the viewpoint of determining the oil phase level.

Suitable organic oils for use herein include, for example, optionallyhydroxy-substituted C₈-C₅₀ unsaturated fatty acids and esters thereof,C₁-C₂₄ esters of C₈-C₃₀ saturated fatty acids such as isopropylmyristate, isopropyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate andoctyldodecylmyristate (Wickenol 142), beeswax, saturated and unsaturatedfatty alcohols such as behenyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol, hydrocarbonssuch as mineral oils, petrolatum and squalane, fatty sorbitan esters(see U.S. Pat. No. 3,988,255, Seiden, issued Oct. 26, 1976), lanolin andlanolin derivatives, animal and vegetable triglycerides such as almondoil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil, jojoba oil, oil of apricotpits, walnuts, palm nuts, pistachio nuts, sesame seeds, rapeseed, cadeoil, corn oil, peach pit oil, poppyseed oil, pine oil, castor oil,soybean oil, avocado oil, safflower oil, coconut oil, hazelnut oil,olive oil, grapeseed oil, shea butter, shorea butter, and sunflower seedoil and C₁-C₂₄ esters of dimer and trimer acids such as diisopropyldimerate, diisostearylmalate, diisostearyldimerate andtriisostearyltrimerate. Of the above, highly preferred are the mineraloils, petrolatums, unsaturated fatty acids and esters thereof andmixtures thereof.

Optional Ingredients

A wide variety of optional ingredients can be incorporated into thecompositions. The following are non-limiting examples of numerousingredients that can be used.

Acidic Skin Care Active

The compositions of the present invention can comprise an acidic skincare active, in addition to salicylic acid or salicylic acid derivative.

Suitable acidic skin care actives can be selected from hydroxycarboxylicacids. As used herein the term acidic skin care active means any skincare active containing an acidic functional group (e.g. carboxy,sulfonic).

Suitable hydroxycarboxylic acids can be selected fromhydroxymonocarboxylic acids having the following chemical structure:

R₁(CR₂OH)_(m)(CH₂)_(n)COOH

wherein R₁, R₂=H, alkyl, aralkyl or aryl group of saturated orunsaturated, straight or branched chain or cyclic form, having from 1 to25 carbon atoms; m=1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 or 9; n=0 or a numerical number up to23.

The hydroxymonocarboxylic acid may be present as a free acid, lactone,or salt form, The lactone form could be either inter or intramolecularlactone, however, most common ones are intramolecular lactones with aring structure formed by elimination of one or more water moleculesbetween a hydroxy group and the carboxylic group. Since thehydroxymonocarboxylic acids are organic in nature, they may form a saltor a complex with an inorganic or organic base such as ammoniumhydroxide, sodium or potassium hydroxide, or triethanolamine.

The hydroxymonocarboxylic acid and its related compounds may exist asstereoisomers such as D, L, and DL forms.

Typical alkyl, aralkyl and aryl groups for R₁ and R₂ include methyl,ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, benzyl and phenyl. The hydrogen atoms of theR₁ and R₂ and (CH₂)n may be substituted by a nonfunctional element suchas F, Cl, Br, I, S or a radical such as a lower alkyl or alkoxy,saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 9 carbon atoms. Representativehydroxymonocarboxylic acids are 2-hydroxyacetic acid (glycolic acid),2-hydroxypropanoic acid (lactic acid), 2-methyl 2-hydroxypropanoic acid(methyllactic acid), 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, phenyl 2-hydroxyacetic acid(mandelic acid), phenyl 2-methyl 2-hydroxyacetic acid, 3-phenyl2-hydroxypropanoic acid (phenyllactic acid), 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid(glyceric acid), 2.3.4-trihydroxybutanoic acid,2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxypentanoic acid, 2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyhexanoic acid,2-hydroxydodecanoic acid (alpha hydroxylauric acid),2,3,4,5,6,7-hexahydroxyheptanoic acid, diphenyl 2-hydroxyacetic acid(benzilic acid), 4-hydroxymandelic acid, 4-chloromandelic acid,3-hydroxybutanoic acid, 4-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid,5-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 12-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 10-hydroxydecanoicacid, 16-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxy-3-methylbutanoic acid,2-hydroxy-4-methylpentanoic acid, 3-hydroxy-4-methoxymandelic acid,4-hydroxy-3-methoxymendelic acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylbutanoic acid,3-(2-hydroxyphenyl) lactic acid, 3-(4-hydroxyphenyl) lactic acid,hexahydromandelic acid, 3-hydroxy-3-methylpentanoic acid,4-hydroxydecanoic acid, 5-hydroxydecanoic acid and aleuritic acid.

Another type of hydroxyacid suitable for use herein is ahydroxydicarboxylic acid having the following formula:

HOOC(CHOH)_(m)(CH₂)_(n)COOH

wherein m=1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 or 9; n=0 or an integer up to 23.

The hydroxydicarboxylic acid may also be present as a free acid, lactoneor salt form. The hydroxydicarboxylic acid and its related compounds mayalso exist as stereoisomers such as D, L, DL and meso forms.

The hydrogen attached to the carbon atom may be substituted by anonfunctional element such as F, Cl, Br, I, S, or a radical such as alower saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkoxy having from 1 to 9 carbonatoms.

Representative hydroxydicarboxylic acids are 2-hydroxypropanedioic acid(tartronic acid), 2-hydroxybutanedioic acid (malic acid), erythraricacid and threaric acid (tartaric acid), arabiraric acid, ribaric acid,xylaric acid and lyxaric acid, glucaric acid (saccharic acid),galactaric acid (mucic acid), mannaric acid, gularic acid, allaric acid,altraric acid, idaric acid and talaric acid.

A third type of hydroxyacid suitable for use herein is a miscellaneousgroup of compounds which is not readily represented by the above genericstructure of either the first type or the second type described above.Included in the third type of hydroxyacids are the following:

Hydroxycarboxylic acids of formula:

R(OH)_(m)(COOH)_(n)

wherein m, n=1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 or 9, R=H, alkyl, aralkyl or aryl group ofsaturated or unsaturated, straight or branched chain or cyclic form,having from 1 to 25 carbon atoms; citric acid, isocitric acid,citramalic acid, agaricic acid (n-hexadecylcitric acid), quinic acid,uronic acids including glucuronic acid, glucuronolactone, galacturonicacid, galacturonolactone, hydroxypyruvic acid, hydroxypyruvic acidphosphate, ascorbic acid, dihydroascorbic acid, dihydroxytartaric acid,2-hydroxy-2-methylbutanoic acid, 1-hydroxy-1-cyclopropane carboxylicacid, 2-hydroxyhexanedial, 5-hydroxylysine, 3-hydroxy-2-aminopentanoicacid, tropic acid, 4-hydroxy-2,2-diphenylbutanoic acid,3-hydroxy-3-methylglutaric acid and 4-hydroxy-3-pentenoic acid.

The third type of hydroxyacid may also be present as a free acid,lactone or salt form and may also exist as stereoisomers such as D, L,DL and meso forms.

The hydrogen atom attached to the carbon atom may be substituted by anonfunctional element such as F, Cl, Br, I, S or a radical such as alower saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkoxy having from 1 to 9 carbonatoms.

Mixtures of hydroxy acids can also be used in the compositions herein.Hydroxy acids are useful herein from the viewpoint of reducing wrinklesand improving skin feel and appearance.

Other suitable hydroxy acids for use herein include retinoic acid, andazelaic acid.

The acidic skin care active can be present at a level of from about 0.1%to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, more preferablyfrom about 0.5% to about 3%, by weight of composition.

The acidic skin care active can be solubilized in water or ahydroalcoholic solution, for example, solutions based upon C₂-C₆alcohols, diols and polyols, preferred alcohols being selected fromethanol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, andmixtures thereof.

The compositions of the present invention can also comprise asolubilizing agent, in addition to the cyclodextrin compound, forsolubilizing the acidic skin care active and/or salicylic acid orsalicylic acid derivative. Any solublizing agent suitable for use in acosmetic composition can be used. Preferably the solubilizing agentherein is selected from polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene ethers of C4 toC22 alcohols, pyrrolidone-based solubilising agents, polyethylene glycolbased nonionic surfactants having an HLB of greater than about 15,preferably greater than about 18, and mixtures thereof.

Pyrrolidone-based solubilising agents suitable for use herein includepolyvinylpyrrolidone or C₁-C₄ alkyl polyvinylpyrrolidone having amolecular weight (viscosity average) in the range from about 1500 toabout 1,500,000, preferably from about 3000 to about 700,000, morepreferably from about 5000 to about 100,000. Suitable examples ofpyrrolidone-based solubilising agents are polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) (orpovidone) and butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone. The most preferredpyrrolidone-based solubilising agent herein is polyvinylpyrrolidone. PVPis commercially available under the trade name Luviskol (RTM) from BASF.A preferred PVP solubilising agent herein is Luviskol K17 which has aviscosity-average molecular weight of about 9,000. Otherpyrrolidone-based solubilising agents for use herein include C₁-C₁₈alkyl or hydroxyalkyl pyrrolidones such as lauryl pyrrolidone.

The pyrrolidone-based solubilising agent is preferably present in thecomposition herein in a level of from about 0.1% to about 10%, morepreferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, especially from about 0.5% toabout 2% by weight of composition.

Preferred embodiments of the invention additionally comprise from about0.01% to about 5% by weight of an additional acid or salt thereof whichis soluble in water at pH values of less than or equal to the pK_(a) ofthe corresponding acid, for example, an acid selected from citric acid,boric acid, and salts, and mixtures thereof. These materials arevaluable herein in combination with the pyrrolidone-based complexingagent from the viewpoint of aiding solubilization of the acidic skincare active/salicylic acid or salicylic acid derivative. Particularlypreferred herein from this viewpoint is a sodium salt of citric acid. Inpreferred embodiments, the acid or salt thereof is soluble to a level ofat least 5% w/w at 25° C.

A particularly preferred solubilizing agent in the compositions of thepresent invention is a nonionic surfactant selected frompolyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene ethers of C4-C22 alcohols, and mixturesthereof. The nonionic surfactant is valuable herein as a solubilisingagent for the acidic skin care active in the discontinuous aqueousphase. Suitable polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene ethers of C4-C22alcohols for use herein include those having the general formula:

wherein x is in the range of from about 1 to about 35, preferably fromabout 1 to about 10, y is in the range of from about 1 to about 45,preferably from about 1 to about 30 and R is a straight chain orbranched chain C4 to C22 alkyl group, or a mixture thereof. In preferredembodiments (x+y) is greater than or equal to 5, preferably greater thanor equal 10, more preferably greater than or equal to 15. The ratio ofx:y is in the range from 1:1 to 1:10.

Examples of suitable R groups in the above formula include cetyl, butyl,stearyl, cetearyl, decyl, lauryl and myristyl.

Examples of suitable polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene alcohol ethersinclude (using CTFA designations) PPG-4-Ceteth-1, PPG-4-Ceteth-5,PPG-4-Ceteth-10, PPG-4-Ceteth-20, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, PPG-8-Ceteth-1,PPG-8-Ceteth-2, PPG-8-Ceteth-5, PPG-8-Ceteth-10, PPG-8-Ceteth-20,PPG-2-Buteth-3, PPG-2-Buteth-5, PPG-5-Buteth-7, PPG-9-Buteth-12,PPG-28-Buteth-35, PPG-12-Buteth-16, PPG-15-Buteth-20, PPG-20-Buteth-30,PPG-24-Buteth-27, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PPG-33-Buteth-45, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9,PPG-4-Ceteareth-12, PPG-10-Ceteareth-20, PPG-2-Deceth-10,PPG-4-Deceth-4, PPG-6-Deceth-4, PPG-6-Deceth-9, PPG-8-Deceth-6,PPG-2-Isodeceth-4, PPG-2-Isodeceth-6, PPG-2-Isodeceth-9,PPG-2-Isodeceth-12, PPG-3-Isodeceth-1, PPG-4-Laureth-5, PPG-4-Laureth-2,PPG-4-Laureth-7, PPG-5-Laureth-5, PPG-25-Laureth-25, PPG-3-Myreth-11,PPG-3-Myreth-3 and PPG-9-Steareth-3.

Preferred polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene ethers for use herein areethers of C8 to C16 alcohols having the formula (I) wherein x is from 2to 12 and y is from 10 to 30 and where the ratio of x:y is in the rangeof from about 1:2 to about 1:8.

Particularly preferred polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene ethers of C4 toC22 alcohols for use herein are those having the formula (I) abovewherein R is cetyl and wherein x is in the range of from about 4 toabout 8, and wherein y is in the range of from about 15 to about 25, andthe ratio of x:y is in the range of from about 1:3 to about 1:5. Aparticularly preferred ether from the viewpoint of improvingsolubilisation of the acidic skin care active is PPG-5-Ceteth-20, whichis available under the tradename Procetyl AWS.

The solubilizing agent herein is preferably present at a level of fromabout 0.1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 1% to about 10%,especially from about 2% to about 8% by weight of composition.

Preferred embodiments herein comprise a pigment or mixture of pigments.The pigment used herein must be compatible with any acidic skin careactive/salicylic acid/salicylic acid derivative which is present in thecomposition and have excellent overall colour stability. Suitablepigments for use herein can be inorganic and/or organic. Also includedwithin the term pigment are materials having a low colour or luster suchas matte finishing agents, and also light scattering agents. Examples ofsuitable pigments are iron oxides, rutile titanium dioxide, anatasetitanium dioxide, ferric oxide, ferrous oxide, chromium oxide, chromiumhydroxide, manganese violet, acylglutamate iron oxides, ultramarineblue, D&C dyes, carmine, and mixtures thereof. Depending upon the typeof make-up composition, eg. foundation or blusher, a mixture of pigmentswill normally be used.

The foundation composition can also include at least one matte finishingagent. The function of the matte finishing agent is to hide skin defectsand reduce shine. Such cosmetically acceptable inorganic agents, i.e.,those included in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Third Ed., assilica, hydrated silica, silicone-treated silica beads, mica, talc,polyethylene, titanium dioxide, bentonite, hectorite, kaolin, chalk,diatomaceous earth, attapulgite zinc oxide and the like may be utilized.Of particular usefulness as a matte finishing agent is low lusterpigment such as titanated mica (mica coated with titanium dioxide)coated with barium sulfate. Of the inorganic components useful as amatte finishing agent low luster pigment, talc, polyethylene, hydratedsilica, kaolin, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof are particularlypreferred. Materials suitable for use herein as light-scattering agentscan be generally described as spherical shaped inorganic materialshaving a particle size of up to about 100 microns, preferably from about5 to about 50 microns, for example spherical silica particles.

Other examples of pigments include lakes of organic colorants such asFD&C Red No. 7 calcium lake, FD&C Yellow No. 5 aluminium lake, D&C RedNo. 9 barium lake, and D&C Red No. 30.

The preferred pigments for use herein from the viewpoint ofmoisturisation, skin feel, skin appearance and emulsion compatibilityare treated pigments. The pigments can be treated with compounds such asamino acids such as lysine, silicones, lauroyl, collagen, polyethylene,lecithin and ester oils. The more preferred pigments are the silicone(polysiloxane) treated pigments.

A highly preferred pigment for use herein is a pigment which has beencoated with organosilicon component selected from a polyorganosiloxaneor a silane wherein the coated pigment has a hydrogen potential of lessthan about 2.0, preferably less than about 1.0, more preferably lessthan about 0.5 ml, and especially less than about 0.1 ml H₂/g of coatedpigment. The pigment preferred for use herein is in particulate form.The pigment is incorporated into the continuous oil phase in thecompositions herein. The coatings used can be bonded to the pigmentsurface by covalent bonding, physical adsorption or adhesion, preferablyby covalent bonding to the surface of the pigment. The function of thecoatings herein is to hydrophobically-modify the pigments so that thayare “wettable” in the continuous silicone phase of the water-in-siliconeemulsions. The coated pigment is also useful herein from the viewpointof reducing hydrogen gas evolution and improving product stability.

Without wishing to be limited by theory it is believed that although thepigments are present in the oil phase of the water-in-oil emulsion,hydrogen ions from the aqueous phase can pass through the interface ofthe emulsion into the oil phase, where they are available to react withthe pigment coatings, e.g. to give off hydrogen gas. However, by usingorganosilicon-coated pigments having a hydrogen potential of less thanabout 2 ml H₂/g of coated pigment, hydrogen gas generation is reduced.

The hydrogen potential of the coated pigment is measured herein usingthe following test method:

A dispersion of the coated pigment containing 20 g of coated pigment isplaced in a flask on a magnetic stirrer and 100 ml of a 2% ethanolicsolution of potassium hydroxide is added with stirring at ambienttemperature. The hydrogen gas which is evolved is collected in a secondflask at ambient temperature and pressure (25° C., 1At). The hydrogengas released can therefore be volumetrically measured.

A wide variety of organosilicon components can be used for treating thepigments herein. A suitable polyorganosiloxane herein is selected from:

(A) material of the formula:

(R¹)₃SiO—(Si(R²R³)O)_(p)—Si(R²R³)OA₂

 wherein p is 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 100, A₂ is hydrogen or analkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, R¹ is a C₁-C₃₀ alkyl,preferably methyl, R² and R³ are independently selected from a C₁-C₃₀alkyl and a phenyl, preferably wherein R² and R³ are both methyl orwherein R² is methyl and R³ is phenyl; or

(B) material of the formula:

(R¹)₃SiO(Si(R²)(H)—O)_(i)—Si(R¹)₃

 wherein i is 1 to 1000, preferably 1 to 100, and wherein R¹ and R² areas defined above for formula (A).

In preferred embodiments the organosilicon component is selected from asilane. The silane can be selected from material of the formula:

(C) A_(l)SiX₁X₂X₃

 wherein A is an alkyl or alkenyl group having from 1 to 30 carbonatoms, and X₁, X₂ and X₃ are independently C₁-C₄ alkoxy preferablymethoxy or ethoxy, or halo, preferably chloro.

When the pigment herein is treated with silane material having theformula (C) described herein above a pigment having the followingformula (1) is produced:

P—O—Si(OH)(A)—[—O—Si(OH)(A)—]_(0—100)—OH

wherein P is an atom in the pigment surface and each A is an alkyl oralkenyl group having up to 30 carbon atoms. A number of adjacentpolysiloxane chains as shown in formula (1) can be cross-linked throughoxygen atoms to form a polysiloxane chain with up to 100 repeating—Si(—OP)—O— units that extend along the pigment surface, in addition tothe polysiloxane chain which extends away from the pigment surface.Examples of linear or branched alkyl groups are methyl, ethyl, propyl,butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, and so forth up to octadecyl.“Alkenyl” includes carbon chains with one or more double bonds; examplesof such groups include ethylene, propylene, acrylyl, methacrylyl, andresidues of unsaturated fatty acids such as oleic (C₁₇C₃₃—), linoleic(C₁₇H₃₁—), and linolenic (C₁₇H₂₉—).

When the pigment herein is treated with polyorganosiloxane materialhaving the formula (A) described hereinabove a pigment having thefollowing formula (2) is produced:

P—O—(Si(R²R³)O)_(p)—Si(R¹)₃  (2)

wherein p is 1-1000, preferably 1 to 100, R¹, R² and R³ are as definedabove for formula (A) and P is an atom in the pigment surface.

When the pigment herein is treated with polyorganosiloxane materialhaving the formula (B) described hereinabove a pigment having thefollowing formula (3) is produced:

(R¹)₃SiO—[Si(R²)(—OP)—O—]_(p)—Si(R¹)₃  (3)

wherein each P is an atom in the pigment surface, p is from 1 to 1000,preferably from 1 to 100, R¹ and R² are as defined above in formula (B)and in which each of the up to 100 repeating (Si—O) units is bondedthrough an oxygen atom to the pigment surface.

The pigment (or a mixture of two or more pigments) can be coated byplacing it in dry, finely divided form in a mixer, adding theorganosilicon component, and mixing. The organosilicon coating ispreferably present at a level of from about 0.01% to about 5%, morepreferably from about 0.1% to about 4%, and especially from about 0.5%to about 2%, by weight of the organosilicon coated pigment.

The most preferred coated pigment from the viewpoint of reducinghydrogen gas evolution and improving product stability is Cardre 70429.

The total concentration of the coated pigment may be from about 0.1 toabout 25% by weight and is preferably from about 1 to about 15%, morepreferably from about 8% to about 12% by weight of the totalcomposition, the exact concentration being dependent to some extent uponthe specific mixture of pigments selected for use in a foundationmake-up or blusher to achieve the desired shades. The preferredcompositions contain from about 2% to about 20% by weight of titaniumdioxide and most preferably from about 5% to about 10% by weight oftitanium dioxide.

A highly preferred component of the compositions herein is a humectantor mixture of humectants. The humectant or mixture of humectants hereinis present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 30% preferably fromabout 1% to about 25%, and more preferably from about 1% to about 10% byweight of composition. Suitable humectants are selected from glycerineand polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant having a viscosity at 25° C. of300,000 to 1,100,000 cps; a specific gravity at 25° C. of 1 to 1.2 g/ml,a pH of 5.0 to 5.5; a bound water content of 33 to 58%; and, a freewater content from 5 to 20%.

The humectant can be incorporated at least partly into the oil phase ofa water-in-oil emulsion. The oil phase preferably comprises from about0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 3% by weightof humectant on a composition basis. The humectant can be introducedinto the oil phase in the form of a mixture with or incorporated withina particulate lipophilic or hydrophobic carrier material.

Polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricants having the desired properties aremarketed by Guardian Chemical Corporation under the trademark“Lubrajel”. The “Lubrajels” identified as “Lubrajel DV”, “Lubrajel MS”,and “Lubrajel CG” are preferred in the present invention. The gellingagents sold under these trademarks contain about 1% propylene glycol.

Other suitable humectants include sorbitol, panthenols, propyleneglycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol,alkoxylated glucose derivatives, such as Glucam (RTM) E-20, hexanetriol,and glucose ethers, and mixtures thereof.

The panthenol moisturiser can be selected from D-panthenol([R]-2,4-dihydroxy-N-[3-hydroxypropyl)]-3,3-dimethylbutamide),DL-panthenol, calcium pantothenate, royal jelly, panthetine,pantotheine, panthenyl ethyl ether, pangamic acid, pyridoxin, pantoyllactose and Vitamin B complex.

The preferred humectant herein is glycerine. Chemically, glycerine is1,2,3-propanetriol and is a product of commerce.

A preferred component of the compositions herein, in addition to theorganic amphiphilic surfactant is a polyol ester skin conditioningagent.

The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from about0.01% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 15%, andespecially from about 1% to about 10% by weight of the polyol ester. Thelevel of polyol ester by weight of the oil in the composition ispreferably from about 1% to about 30%, more preferably from about 5% toabout 20%.

The polyol ester preferred for use herein is a nonocclusive liquid orliquifiable polyol carboxylic acid ester. These polyol esters arederived from a polyol radical or moiety and one or more carboxylic acidradicals or moieties. In other words, these esters contain a moietyderived from a polyol and one or more moieties derived from a carboxylicacid. These carboxylic acid esters can also be derived from a carboxylicacid. These carboxylic acid esters can also be described as liquidpolyol fatty acid esters, because the terms carboxylic acid and fattyacid are often used interchangeably by those skilled in the art.

The preferred liquid polyol polyesters employed in this inventioncomprise certain polyols, especially sugars or sugar alcohols,esterified with at least four fatty acid groups. Accordingly, the polyolstarting material must have at least four esterifiable hydroxyl groups.Examples of preferred polyols are sugars, including monosaccharaides anddisaccharides, and sugar alcohols. Examples of monosaccharidescontaining four hydroxyl groups are xylose and arabinose and the sugaralcohol derived from xylose, which has five hydroxyl groups, i.e.,xylitol. The monosaccharide, erythrose, is not suitable in the practiceof this invention since it only contains three hydroxyl groups, but thesugar alcohol derived from erythrose, i.e., erythritol, contains fourhydroxyl groups and accordingly can be used. Suitable five hydroxylgroup-containing monosaccharides are galactose, fructose, and sorbose.Sugar alcohols containing six —OH groups derived from the hydrolysisproducts of sucrose, as well as glucose and sorbose, e.g., sorbitol, arealso suitable. Examples of disaccharide polyols which can be usedinclude maltose, lactose, and sucrose, all of which contain eighthydroxyl groups.

Preferred polyols for preparing the polyesters for use in the presentinvention are selected from the group consisting of erythritol, xylitol,sorbitol, glucose, and sucrose. Sucrose is especially preferred.

The polyol starting material having at least four hydroxyl groups isesterified on at least four of the —OH groups with a fatty acidcontaining from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms. Examples of such fattyacids include caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, myristoleic, palmitic,palmitoleic, stearic, oleic, ricinoleic, linoleic, linolenic,eleostearic, arachidic, arachidonic, behenic, and erucic acid. The fattyacids can be derived from naturally occurring or synthetic fatty acids;they can be saturated or unsaturated, including positional andgeometrical isomers. However, in order to provide liquid polyesterspreferred for use herein, at least about 50% by weight of the fatty acidincorporated into the polyester molecule should be unsaturated. Oleicand linoleic acids, and mixtures thereof, are especially preferred.

The polyol fatty acid polyesters useful in this invention should containat least four fatty acid ester groups. It is not necessary that all ofthe hydroxyl groups of the polyol be esterified with fatty acid, but itis preferable that the polyester contain no more than two unesterifiedhydroxyl groups. Most preferably, substantially all of the hydroxylgroups of the polyol are esterified with fatty acid, i.e., the polyolmoiety is substantially completely esterified. The fatty acidsesterified to the polyol molecule can be the same or mixed, but as notedabove, a substantial amount of the unsaturated acid ester groups must bepresent to provide liquidity.

To illustrate the above points, a sucrose fatty triester would not besuitable for use herein because it does not contain the required fourfatty acid ester groups. A sucrose tetra-fatty acid ester would besuitable, but is not preferred because it has more than two unesterifiedhydroxyl groups. A sucrose hexa-fatty acid ester would be preferredbecause it has no more than two unesterified hydroxyl groups. Highlypreferred compounds in which all the hydroxyl groups are esterified withfatty acids include the liquid sucrose octa-substituted fatty acidesters.

The following are non-limiting examples of specific polyol fatty acidpolyesters containing at least four fatty acid ester groups suitable foruse in the present invention: glucose tetraoleate, the glucosetetraesters of soybean oil fatty acids (unsaturated), the mannosetetraesters of mixed soybean oil fatty acids, the galactose tetraestersof oleic acid, the arabinose tetraesters of linoleic acid, xylosetetralinoleate, galactose pentaoleate, sorbitol tetraoleate, thesorbitol hexaesters of unsaturated soybean oil fatty acids, xylitolpentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoletate, sucrosehexaoleate, sucrose hepatoleate, sucrose octaoleate, and mixturesthereof.

As noted above, highly preferred polyol fatty acid esters are thosewherein the fatty acids contain from about 14 to about 18 carbon atoms.

The preferred liquid polyol polyesters preferred for use herein havecomplete melting points below about 30° C., preferably below about27.50° C., more preferably below about 25° C. Complete melting pointsreported herein are measured by Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC).

The polyol fatty acid polyesters suitable for use herein can be preparedby a variety of methods well known to those skilled in the art. Thesemethods include: transesterification of the polyol with methyl, ethyl orglycerol fatty acid esters using a variety of catalysts; acylation ofthe polyol with a fatty acid chloride; acylation of the polyol with afatty acid anhydride; and acylation of the polyol with a fatty acid, perse. See U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,831,854; 4,005,196, to Jandacek, issued Jan.25, 1977; U.S. Pat. No. 4,005,196, to Jandacek, issued Jan. 25, 1977.

The make-up compositions of the present invention can also comprise aparticulate cross-linked hydrophobic acrylate or methacrylate copolymer.This copolymer is particularly valuable for reducing shine andcontrolling oil while helping to provide effective moisturizationbenefits. The cross-linked hydrophobic polymer is preferably in the formof a copolymer lattice with at least one active ingredient disperseduniformly throughout and entrapped within the copolymer lattice.Alternatively, the hydrophobic polymer can take the form of a porousparticle having a surface area (N₂-BET) in the range from about 50 to500, preferably 100 to 300 m²/g and having the active ingredientabsorbed therein.

The cross-linked hydrophobic polymer when used herein is in an amount offrom about 0.1% to about 10% by weight and is preferably incorporated inthe external silicone-containing oil phase. The active ingredient can beone or more or a mixture of skin compatible oils, skin compatiblehumectants, emollients, moisturizing agents and sunscreens. The polymermaterial is in the form of a powder, the powder being a combined systemof particles. The system of powder particles forms a lattice whichincludes unit particles of less than about one micron in averagediameter, agglomerates of fused unit particles of sizes in the range ofabout 20 to 100 microns in average diameter and aggregates of clustersof fused agglomerates of sizes in the range of about 200 to 1,200microns in average diameter.

The powder material of the present invention which can be employed asthe carrier for the active ingredient can be broadly described as across-linked “post absorbed” hydrophobic polymer lattice. The powderpreferably has entrapped and dispersed therein, an active which may bein the form of a solid, liquid or gas. The lattice is in particulateform and constitutes free flowing discrete solid particles when loadedwith the active material. The lattice may contain a predeterminedquantity of the active material. The polymer has the structural formula:

where the ratio of x to y is 80:20, R′ is —CH₂CH₂— and R″ is—(CH₂)₁₁CH₃.

A suitable hydrophobic polymer for use herein is a highly crosslinkedpolymer, more particularly a highly cross-linked polymethacrylatecopolymer such as that manufactured by the Dow Corning Corporation,Midland, Mich., USA, and sold under the trademark POLYTRAP (RTM). It isan ultralight free-flowing white powder and the particles are capable ofabsorbing high levels of lipophilic liquids and some hydrophilic liquidswhile at the same time maintaining a free-flowing powder character. Thepowder structure consists of a lattice of unit particles less than onemicron that are fused into agglomerates of 20 to 100 microns and theagglomerates are loosely clustered into macro-particles or aggregates ofabout 200 to about 1200 micron size. The polymer powder is capable ofcontaining as much as four times its weight of fluids, emulsions,dispersions or melted solids.

Adsorption of actives onto the polymer powder can be accomplished usinga stainless steel mixing bowl and a spoon, wherein the active is addedto the powder and the spoon is used to gently fold the active into thepolymer powder. Low viscosity fluids may be adsorbed by addition of thefluids to a sealable vessel containing the polymer and then tumbling thematerials until a consistency is achieved. More elaborate blendingequipment such as ribbon or twin cone blenders can also be employed. Thepreferred active ingredient for use herein is glycerine. Preferably, theweight ratio of humectant: carrier is from about 1:4 to about 3:1.

Also suitable as a highly cross-linked polymethacrylate copolymer isMicrosponges 5640. This takes the form of generally spherical particlesof cross-linked hydrophobic polymer having a pore size of from about0.01 to about 0.05 μm and a surface area of 200-300 m²/g. Again, it ispreferably loaded with humectant in the levels described above.

The compositions of the invention can also contain a hydrophilic gellingagent at a level preferably from about 0.01% to about 10%, morepreferably from about 0.02% to about 2%, and especially from about 0.02%to about 0.5%. The gelling agent preferably has a viscosity (1% aqueoussolution, 20° C., Brookfield RVT) of at least about 4000 mPa.s, morepreferably at least about 10,000 mPa.s and especially at least 50,000mPa.s.

Suitable hydrophilic gelling agents can generally be described aswater-soluble or colloidally water-soluble polymers, and includecellulose ethers (e.g. hydroxyethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose,hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose), polyvinylalcohol, polyquaternium-10,guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum and xanthan gum.

Among suitable hydrophilic gelling agents are acrylic acid/alkylacrylate copolymers and the carboxyvinyl polymers sold by the B. F.Goodrich Company under the trade mark of Carbopol resins. These resinsconsist essentially of a colloidally water-soluble polyalkenyl polyethercrosslinked polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with from 0.75% to 2.00%of a crosslinking agent such as for example polyallyl sucrose orpolyallyl pentaerythritol. Examples include Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940,Carbopol 950, Carbopol 980, Carbopol 951 and Carbopol 981. Carbopol 934is a water-soluble polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with about 1% ofa polyallyl ether of sucrose having an average of about 5.8 allyl groupsfor each sucrose molecule. Also suitable for use herein arehydrophobically-modified cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid havingamphipathic properties available under the Trade Name Carbopol 1382,Carbopol 1342 and Pemulen TR-1 (CTFA Designation: Acrylates/10-30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer). A combination of the polyalkenyl polyethercross-linked acrylic acid polymer and the hydrophobically modifiedcross-linked acrylic acid polymer is also suitable for use herein. Othersuitable gelling agents suitable for use herein are oleogels such astrihydroxystearin and aluminium magnesium hydroxy stearate. The gellingagents herein are particularly valuable for providing excellentstability characteristics over both normal and elevated temperatures.

Preferably the acidic group containing hydrophilic gelling agents areneutralized. Neutralizing agents suitable for use in neutralizing acidicgroup containing hydrophilic gelling agents herein include sodiumhydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine,diethanolamine and triethanolamine.

The make-up compositions herein can additionally comprise an emollient.Emollients suitable for the compositions of the present inventioninclude natural and synthetic oils selected from mineral, vegetable, andanimal oils, fats and waxes, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, alkyleneglycol and polyalkylene glycol ethers and esters, fatty acids andmixtures thereof.

Suitable emollients for use herein include, for example, optionallyhydroxy-substituted C₈-C₅₀ unsaturated fatty acids and esters thereof,C₁-C₂₄ esters of C₈-C₃₀ saturated fatty acids such as isopropylmyristate, cetyl palmitate and octyldodecylmyristate (Wickenol 142),beeswax, saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohols such as behenylalcohol and cetyl alcohol, hydrocarbons such as mineral oils, petrolatumand squalane, fatty sorbitan esters (see U.S. Pat. No. 3,988,255,Seiden, issued Oct. 26, 1976), lanolin and lanolin derivatives, such aslanolin alcohol ethoxylated, hydroxylated and acetylated lanolins,cholesterol and derivatives thereof, animal and vegetable triglyceridessuch as almond oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil, jojoba oil,oil of apricot pits, walnuts, palm nuts, pistachio nuts, sesame seeds,rapeseed, cade oil, corn oil, peach pit oil, poppyseed oil, pine oil,castor oil, soybean oil, avocado oil, safflower oil, coconut oil,hazelnut oil, olive oil, grapeseed oil, and sunflower seed oil andC₁-C₂₄ esters of dimer and trimer acids such as diisopropyl dimerate,diisostearylmalate, diisostearyldimerate and triisostearyltrimerate.

Preferred emollients are selected from hydrocarbons such asisohexadecane, mineral oils, petrolatum and squalane, lanolin alcohol,and stearyl alcohol. These emollients may be used independently or inmixtures and may be present in the composition of the present inventionin an amount from about 1% to about 30% by weight, and preferably arepresent in an amount from about 5% to about 15% by weight of the totalcomposition.

The composition may also contain additional materials such as, forexample, fragrances, sun-screens, preservatives, electrolytes such assodium chloride, proteins, antioxidants, chelating agents andwater-in-oil emulsifiers as appropriate.

Another optional component of the make-up composition is one or moreultraviolet absorbing agents. Ultraviolet absorbing agents, oftendescribed as sunscreening agents, can be present in a concentration inthe range of between about 1% and about 12% by weight, based on thetotal weight of composition. Preferably, the UV absorbing agentsconstitute between about 2% and 8% by weight. More preferably, the UVabsorbing agents can be present in the composition in a concentrationrange of between about 4% and about 6% by weight. Of the ultravioletabsorbing agents suitable for use herein, benzophenone-3, octyl dimethylPABA (Padimate O), Parsol MCX, and mixtures thereof are particularlypreferred.

Another optional but preferred component herein is one or moreadditional chelating agents, preferably in the range of from about 0.02%to about 0.10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.Preferably, the chelating agent is present in a concentration in therange of between about 0.03% and about 0.07% by weight, based on thetotal weight of the composition. Among the chelating agents that may beincluded in the composition is tetrasodium EDTA.

Another optional but preferred component of the foundation compositionis one or more preservatives. The preservative concentration in thefoundation composition, based on the total weight of that composition,is in the range of between about 0.05% and about 0.8% by weight,preferably between about 0.1% and about 0.3% by weight. Suitablepreservatives for use herein include sodium benzoate and propyl paraben,and mixtures thereof.

Another optional but preferred component is DryFlow supplied by DowCorning Ltd, Avco House, Castle Street, Reading RG17DZ, UK.

The cosmetic compositions of the present invention can be in the form offoundations, blushers, concealers, compact powders, moisturising creamsand lotions, tinted moisturising creams and lotions, and the like,preferably as foundations and concealers.

The table below shows examples of cosmetic compositions of the presentinvention.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 (%, w/w) (%, w/w) (%, w/w) (%, w/w) (%, w/w) (%, w/w)(%, w/w) (%, w/w) Phase A Cyclomethicone (DC 2-1330) 0.0 0.0 7.59 16.755.25 11.99 0.0 0.0 Cyclomethicone DC 245 9.85 8.65 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 10.0410.04 Cyclomethicone/Dimethicone 0.0 0.0 17.20 10.00 18.50 10.00 0.0 0.0Copolyol (90:10) (DC 3225C) Cyclomethicone/Dimethicone 10.00 15.00 0.00.0 0.0 0.0 15.00 15.00 Copolyol (90:10) (BY22-008) SEFA Cottonate¹ 0.000.00 2.00 0.00 2.00 4.00 0.00 0.00 Phase B Microsponge 5640² 0.5 0.750.75 0.00 0.50 0.75 0.75 0.75 Mica 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.000.00 Titanium Dioxide (Cardre 8.25 8.25 8.25 8.25 8.25 8.25 8.25 8.2570429)³ Zinc Oxide & Dimethicone 0.00 0.00 4.00 4.00 0.00 4.00 0.00 0.00Phase C Dryflow⁴ 2.5 2.50 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 2.5 2.5 Phase D YellowIron Oxide 2.10 2.10 2.00 2.10 2.10 2.10 1.60 1.60 Red Iron Oxide 0.900.90 0.24 0.90 0.60 0.90 0.47 0.47 Black Iron oxide 0.60 0.60 0.12 0.600.30 0.60 0.09 0.09 Cyclomethicone (DC 2-1330) 0.0 0.0 1.00 1.00 1.001.00 0.0 0.0 Cyclomethicone DC 245 1.00 1.00 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 1.00 1.00Phase E Durachem⁵ 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 Waxenol⁶ 0.000.00 0.30 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 Phase F Cyclomethicone (DC 2-1330)0.0 0.0 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 0.0 0.0 Cyclomethicone DC 245 1.00 1.00 0.00.0 0.0 0.0 1.00 1.00 Thixin R⁷ 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30Propyl Paraben 0.00 0.00 0.25 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 Phase G EthyleneBrassylate 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.10 0.00 0.00 0.00 Phase H SalicylicAcid 1.00 0.5 1.75 1.95 1.50 1.50 1.00 1.50 Hydroxy propyl βcyclodextrin¹⁰ 8.00 4.00 8.00 8.00 12.00 8.00 4.00 8.00 Procetyl AWS¹¹0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 3.00 3.00 Glycerine 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.006.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 Water 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 0.00 0.00 PhaseI Water To 100 Na4EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 SodiumCitrate 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 Sodium Chloride 0.300.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 Citric Acid 0.5 1.00 0.00 0.00 0.500.00 0.50 0.50 Polyvinylpyrrolidone (Luviskol 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.001.00 1.00 1.00 K17)⁸ Methyl Paraben 0.00 0.00 0.20 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.000.00 Phase J Zinc Oxide 0.00 0.00 0.42 0.42 0.00 0.28 0.00 0.00Arginine¹² 0.00 0.00 0.325 0.65 0.65 0.65 0.00 0.00 Total: 100 100 100100 100 100 100 100 ¹Supplied by Procter & Gamble ²Supplied by DowCorning Ltd, Avco House, Castle Street, Reading RG1 7DZ, UK ³Supplied byCardre Incorporated, 70 Tyler Pl., South Plainfield, NJ 07090, USA⁴Supplied by Dow Corning Ltd, Avco House, Castle Street, Reading RG17DZ, UK ⁵Supplied by Astor-Stag Ltd., Tavistock Road, Wets Drayton,Middlesex UB7 7RA, UK ⁶Supplied by Caschem Inc., 40 Avenue A, Bayonne,NJ 07002, USA ⁷Trihydroxystearin, supplied by Rheox Ltd, Barons Court,Manchester Road, Wilmslow, SK9 1BQ, UK ⁸Supplied by BASF, Earl Road,Cheadle Hulme, Cheadle, Cheshire, SK8 6QB ⁹Supplied by Union Carbide, 39Old Ridgebury Road, Danbury ¹⁰Supplied by Cerestar USA Inc., 1100Indianapolis Boulevard, Hammond, Indiana, USA 46320 ¹¹Supplied by CrodaChemicals Ltd., Cowick Hall, Snaith, Goole, North Humberside, DN14 9AA¹²Supplied by Degussa Ltd, Winterton House, Winterton Way, Macclesfield,Cheshire SK11 0LP

The formulations of Examples I to VI can be prepared as follows. Thevarious components listed in the Table have been segregated into groups,the constituents of each group being mixed together before being addedto members of the remaining groups in accordance with the procedures setforth below.

In the first step, the mixture of components of phase A is stirred forapproximately 15 minutes with shear mixing until homogeneous. With highspeed shear mixing, the materials of phase B are added gradually to Aand the batch is mixed for about 30 minutes. Phase C is added and theresulting mixture is ground for approximately 15 minutes.

The components from phase D are then added and the resulting mixture isground until fully dispersed.

The waxy phase E is then added to the batch and the batch is heated to85° C. with mixing until the waxes have melted and then cooled to 50° C.with stirring. Phase F premix is then added to the batch and homogenisedfor 10 minutes. The batch is cooled to room temperature with stirring.Phase G is added to the batch and homogenised for 10 minutes.

The water phase is prepared as follows. The components of phase I aremixed until dissolved. The components of phase H are mixed togetherunder high speed shear until dissolved. The solution is mixed untilclear. Phase I is added to phase H and mixed, followed by addition ofphase J under mixing.

The water phase is finally added to the oil phase slowly whilsthomogenising at a low speed, with stirring. When all of the water phasehas been added, high shear is applied to the batch for approximately 5minutes to increase the viscosity of the final product.

The resulting make-up composition is ready for packaging.

The cosmetic compositions of the Examples exhibit improvedanti-acne/anti-inflammatory activity and reduced skin irritation.

What is claimed is:
 1. Cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin comprising a cyclodextrin compound selected from the group consisting of alpha-cyclodextrin, beta-cyclodextrin, gamma-cyclodextrin, hydroxyalkyl-beta-cyclodextrin, and mixtures thereof and a salicylic acid or salicylic acid derivative, wherein the composition is in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion having a continuous silicone-containing phase and a discontinuous aqueous phase.
 2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 wherein the cyclodextrin compound is hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin.
 3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 comprising salicylic acid.
 4. Cosmetic composition according to claim 3 comprising from about 0.1% to about 10%, by weight, of salicylic acid or salicylic acid derivative.
 5. Cosmetic composition according to claim 2 comprising from about 0.1% to about 20%, by weight, of cyclodextrin compound.
 6. Cosmetic composition according to claim 4 wherein the salicylic acid or salicylic acid derivative is solubilised in the aqueous phase.
 7. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 additionally comprising from about 0.1% to about 30%, by weight, of pigment.
 8. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 wherein the silicone oil phase comprises from about 0.01% to about 25%, by weight of the silicone oil phase, of non-volatile silicones and from about 75% to about 99.99%, by weight of the silicone oil phase, of volatile silicones.
 9. Cosmetic composition according to claim 4 comprising from about 0.1% to about 5%, by weight, of salicylic acid or salicylic acid derivative.
 10. Cosmetic composition according to claim 5 comprising from about 0.8% to about 15%, by weight, of cyclodextrin compound.
 11. Cosmetic composition according to claim 7 additionally comprising from about 0.1% to about 25%, by weight, of pigment.
 12. Cosmetic composition according to claim 11 additionally comprising from about 1% to about 15%, by weight, of pigment. 